got mine off amazon.ca 130 bone and thats right free shipping
on your transfer-case selector, how many positions do you have 3,4 or 5?
NP231: Part time transfer case used commonly in XJ's, YJ's, TJ's, ZJ's, etc. It offers 2wd, 4 part time, and 4 low.
NP242: Full time transfer case used in XJ's and ZJ's. 2wd, 4 part time, 4 full time, and 4 low. The 4 full time feature is unique from the NP249 as it does not use a vicious coupler (what goes bad in the 249), but instead a mechanism that operates similar to an open differential.
NP249: Full time transfer case used exclusively in 93-98 ZJ Grand Cherokees with 4 full time and 4 low. The 249 utilizes a vicious coupler used in conjunction with the center differential found in the 242. This makes for very efficient, and very effective full time operation. 93-95 lack the ability to lock the center differential in 4 low, while a revised version in 96 changed this.
I don't keep extra cbs on hand however I like amazon.ca for pricing and free delivery is nice when you can find items with it. think I spent 60 on the cb 20 on the cable 40 on the antenna and another 60 on the custom antenna mount as I was unhappy with all other options. so around 180 altogether, I did a whole lotta research before I bought a thing so that I knew what I was putting together. not all manufacturers are equal. stick with good recognized brands like cobra Firestick and K40
Big fucking B&M cooler to keep your auto trans cool. the stock temp gauge is ok at best for engine temps but you don't know what your trans is doing. think of an automatic trans as using a grinding disk to spin the output shaft or a a constantly slipping clutch. they generate heat, when you put bigger than stock tires on them without changing your axle gears out it puts a greater load on the engine and transmission thus generating more heat... when you reach 200* Fahrenheit the fluid starts to break down (this is where the burnt trans smell comes from) at 240* irreversible damage is done as the rubber seals in the trans start to break down, for every second your foot is on the accelerator the trans build 1* of heat at 300* you have approximate 30 minutes or miles until complete catastrophic failure of the clutch material and your no longer moving under your own power.
not to scare you out of taking your rig out, but I seriously recommend it sooner than later unless you plan on rebuilding the transmission at a later date.
yah I am up to my elbows in my own endeavors at the moment (including my own BF B&M cooler) as well as having other friends who need help on their projects.
but information is free for all so feel free to ask about anything. (that and its way easyer to type a few instructions out for someone to follow while feeding my newborn than it is to drill holes and weld.
when my shits together here and insured I will post up a group meet n greet for a big group of us core guys and allot of our new follower's
well after some short discussion I think I am reworking my cooler mount to be hard mounted to the chassis, this way the hood closes around it. we will see I suppose, means bending some stuff at work after I cut it all out at home. need to pick up a bunch of thin 1x1 angle iron and some 14-16 gauge sheet metal for the baffles and mounts.. more work, why do I do this to myself.
I have to agree, it will be nice to have it out to show off. Kids a little young still and so is the build so chances are I will avoid any possible multipul rollover opportunities. However,I did have it out just befor these last couple things got built. Had it burried up to the frame in a mud hole and winched myself out for about 50+ feet.
Was knarly had the passenger side tire burried to the bumper the shackle on that side inverted. all in all it was a good day of being stuck.
getting motivated here, got some fab time in on the steering stabilizer.
modeling it sort of after the ones they sell i went and attatched the frame side to the sway bar mount. however i decided to modify the design to suit my high-steer and my corrected drag-link angle. on the drag link side i went with the old standby oem toyota/ what they sell you style hookup but went with three U bolts to hold it sturdy as apposed to one or two.
got mine off amazon.ca 130 bone and thats right free shipping
on your transfer-case selector, how many positions do you have 3,4 or 5?
NP231: Part time transfer case used commonly in XJ's, YJ's, TJ's, ZJ's, etc. It offers 2wd, 4 part time, and 4 low.
NP242: Full time transfer case used in XJ's and ZJ's. 2wd, 4 part time, 4 full time, and 4 low. The 4 full time feature is unique from the NP249 as it does not use a vicious coupler (what goes bad in the 249), but instead a mechanism that operates similar to an open differential.
NP249: Full time transfer case used exclusively in 93-98 ZJ Grand Cherokees with 4 full time and 4 low. The 249 utilizes a vicious coupler used in conjunction with the center differential found in the 242. This makes for very efficient, and very effective full time operation. 93-95 lack the ability to lock the center differential in 4 low, while a revised version in 96 changed this.
I don't keep extra cbs on hand however I like amazon.ca for pricing and free delivery is nice when you can find items with it. think I spent 60 on the cb 20 on the cable 40 on the antenna and another 60 on the custom antenna mount as I was unhappy with all other options. so around 180 altogether, I did a whole lotta research before I bought a thing so that I knew what I was putting together. not all manufacturers are equal. stick with good recognized brands like cobra Firestick and K40
Big fucking B&M cooler to keep your auto trans cool. the stock temp gauge is ok at best for engine temps but you don't know what your trans is doing. think of an automatic trans as using a grinding disk to spin the output shaft or a a constantly slipping clutch. they generate heat, when you put bigger than stock tires on them without changing your axle gears out it puts a greater load on the engine and transmission thus generating more heat... when you reach 200* Fahrenheit the fluid starts to break down (this is where the burnt trans smell comes from) at 240* irreversible damage is done as the rubber seals in the trans start to break down, for every second your foot is on the accelerator the trans build 1* of heat at 300* you have approximate 30 minutes or miles until complete catastrophic failure of the clutch material and your no longer moving under your own power.
not to scare you out of taking your rig out, but I seriously recommend it sooner than later unless you plan on rebuilding the transmission at a later date.
yah I am up to my elbows in my own endeavors at the moment (including my own BF B&M cooler) as well as having other friends who need help on their projects.
but information is free for all so feel free to ask about anything. (that and its way easyer to type a few instructions out for someone to follow while feeding my newborn than it is to drill holes and weld.
when my shits together here and insured I will post up a group meet n greet for a big group of us core guys and allot of our new follower's
well after some short discussion I think I am reworking my cooler mount to be hard mounted to the chassis, this way the hood closes around it. we will see I suppose, means bending some stuff at work after I cut it all out at home. need to pick up a bunch of thin 1x1 angle iron and some 14-16 gauge sheet metal for the baffles and mounts.. more work, why do I do this to myself.
I have to agree, it will be nice to have it out to show off. Kids a little young still and so is the build so chances are I will avoid any possible multipul rollover opportunities. However,I did have it out just befor these last couple things got built. Had it burried up to the frame in a mud hole and winched myself out for about 50+ feet.
Was knarly had the passenger side tire burried to the bumper the shackle on that side inverted. all in all it was a good day of being stuck.
getting motivated here, got some fab time in on the steering stabilizer.
modeling it sort of after the ones they sell i went and attatched the frame side to the sway bar mount. however i decided to modify the design to suit my high-steer and my corrected drag-link angle. on the drag link side i went with the old standby oem toyota/ what they sell you style hookup but went with three U bolts to hold it sturdy as apposed to one or two.